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Post by Deleted on May 15, 2017 21:21:16 GMT
Jim Henry Connects the railroad with the radio! "Well it's now working!"
Victory and triumph!
The volume control mystery has got to have an answer... we can view the volume control from out here by clicking on your picture of the Line Amp to enlarge it. I would say the "chrome tab" is one of the audio leads from the volume control that solders to the circuit card inside the amp. It looks like perhaps you can reach below the volume control and twirl it with a finger.
Here is a Jim Henry mystery statement that confuses me: "Still not working with the amp powered off."
Do you have a reason for thinking it will work with the amp turned off? The amp has to be powered on for the amp to pass audio.
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Post by jimhenry2000 on May 16, 2017 0:33:32 GMT
Looks like I am in the same boat as I was before when trying to peak the xmtr and getting no change when I make adjustments. Tomorrow I will disconnect the whip antenna, attach the dummy load then try again. Of course I will still have to re-peak once the enclosure and antenna are mounted on the mast outside. Right now everything is horizontal laying across 2 of my work benches. As to the gain control on the line amp I have also tried turning it above that chrome tab and I see no movement nor any audible change in output. Jim Henry Connects the railroad with the radio! " Well it's now working!" Victory and triumph! The volume control mystery has got to have an answer... we can view the volume control from out here by clicking on your picture of the Line Amp to enlarge it. I would say the "chrome tab" is one of the audio leads from the volume control that solders to the circuit card inside the amp. It looks like perhaps you can reach below the volume control and twirl it with a finger. Here is a Jim Henry mystery statement that confuses me: " Still not working with the amp powered off." Do you have a reason for thinking it will work with the amp turned off? The amp has to be powered on for the amp to pass audio.
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Post by jimhenry2000 on May 17, 2017 1:43:12 GMT
Well that is done. Put the dummy load on again and got it to respond then reconnected the 102" whip and tuned it up to 100mw. However I had to go from coil tap S8 to S6. I tried each tap from S5 to S10. This is surprising as I would think the impedance from a 102" whip with a 4" lead would be pretty close to the stock 118" wire antenna, which worked fine on tap S8. So, tomorrow I hope to get the xmtr installed outside, and re-peak the xmtr again. At least I hope to do that, but it's supposed to be 90 degrees tomorrow! I still have to find out how to adjust the gain control on the line amp as the current audio level is too low. I think I will email RDL next about that. If anyone here is using the RDL STA-1M line amp and knows how to adjust the gain, please cue me in! Thanks. Looks like I am in the same boat as I was before when trying to peak the xmtr and getting no change when I make adjustments. Tomorrow I will disconnect the whip antenna, attach the dummy load then try again. Of course I will still have to re-peak once the enclosure and antenna are mounted on the mast outside. Right now everything is horizontal laying across 2 of my work benches. As to the gain control on the line amp I have also tried turning it above that chrome tab and I see no movement nor any audible change in output. Jim Henry Connects the railroad with the radio! " Well it's now working!" Victory and triumph! The volume control mystery has got to have an answer... we can view the volume control from out here by clicking on your picture of the Line Amp to enlarge it. I would say the "chrome tab" is one of the audio leads from the volume control that solders to the circuit card inside the amp. It looks like perhaps you can reach below the volume control and twirl it with a finger. Here is a Jim Henry mystery statement that confuses me: " Still not working with the amp powered off." Do you have a reason for thinking it will work with the amp turned off? The amp has to be powered on for the amp to pass audio.
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Post by Deleted on May 17, 2017 11:18:57 GMT
Some Guess Work
I'm thinking that the AMT5000 became de-tuned when the long audio cable was attached, which possibly changed the impedance on the ground-side of the transmitter.
In the 1990s I think I installed one of those RDL line amps for a client but I cannot bring the volume control into my memory.
Now, in the 21st century, I may get an RDL STA-1M for my backyard hookup out to my AMT5000... or I may build a line amp since I have the parts to do so... but the lazy way is appealing.
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Post by jimhenry2000 on May 18, 2017 2:03:06 GMT
Good news and bad news. First, I figured out the gain control. After putting it under my magnifying lamp I use when restoring antique radios, I realized that what I thought of as a philips head screw on the top was actually a slot like on a tuning slug. Using the right tool and now I can adjust it just fine. BTW RDL's web site support is useless. I filled out their form but every time I went to submit it, the site rejected the request for entering the wrong security code, and I tried AT LEAST 15 times. I was about to call them on the phone when I decided to give it one more try and put it under my magnifying lamp and found the answer. Now the bad news. I got everything ready for the outdoor install and loaded in my 4WD side by side to take up to the site. Unfortunately the flexing of the 102" cracked the enclosure where the antenna enters the enclosure. I anticipated this possibility and tried to install half-dollar sized washers, one inside and one outside, to spread out the stress on the enclosure. Unfortunately the length of the threaded bolt at the base of the whip was not enough so I tried to get by with just one washer on the outside but it was not enough. I wasn't crazy about the idea of mounting the whip on top of the enclosure from the gitgo due to the possibility of water entering the enclosure no matter how much silicone you put down. I've experienced this many times in my "day job" before I retired but at least in those cases we only had passive muxes/demuxes and fiber splice trays in those enclosures so it only became a problem in the winter when the water froze. I really would like to find another way to mount the whip and sure wish there were still Radio Shacks to go to. I went to a local truck stop and bought a couple different mounts but they haven't worked out. Jim Henry Connects the railroad with the radio! " Well it's now working!" Victory and triumph! The volume control mystery has got to have an answer... we can view the volume control from out here by clicking on your picture of the Line Amp to enlarge it. I would say the "chrome tab" is one of the audio leads from the volume control that solders to the circuit card inside the amp. It looks like perhaps you can reach below the volume control and twirl it with a finger. Here is a Jim Henry mystery statement that confuses me: " Still not working with the amp powered off." Do you have a reason for thinking it will work with the amp turned off? The amp has to be powered on for the amp to pass audio.
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Post by jimhenry2000 on May 18, 2017 16:17:49 GMT
I think I am going to go back to the 118" wire antenna for now, and just tape it to the mast which is fiberglass. Eventually I hope to find an enclosure with antenna mounted on it like the Procaster uses. Good news and bad news. First, I figured out the gain control. After putting it under my magnifying lamp I use when restoring antique radios, I realized that what I thought of as a philips head screw on the top was actually a slot like on a tuning slug. Using the right tool and now I can adjust it just fine. BTW RDL's web site support is useless. I filled out their form but every time I went to submit it, the site rejected the request for entering the wrong security code, and I tried AT LEAST 15 times. I was about to call them on the phone when I decided to give it one more try and put it under my magnifying lamp and found the answer. Now the bad news. I got everything ready for the outdoor install and loaded in my 4WD side by side to take up to the site. Unfortunately the flexing of the 102" cracked the enclosure where the antenna enters the enclosure. I anticipated this possibility and tried to install half-dollar sized washers, one inside and one outside, to spread out the stress on the enclosure. Unfortunately the length of the threaded bolt at the base of the whip was not enough so I tried to get by with just one washer on the outside but it was not enough. I wasn't crazy about the idea of mounting the whip on top of the enclosure from the gitgo due to the possibility of water entering the enclosure no matter how much silicone you put down. I've experienced this many times in my "day job" before I retired but at least in those cases we only had passive muxes/demuxes and fiber splice trays in those enclosures so it only became a problem in the winter when the water froze. I really would like to find another way to mount the whip and sure wish there were still Radio Shacks to go to. I went to a local truck stop and bought a couple different mounts but they haven't worked out. Jim Henry Connects the railroad with the radio! " Well it's now working!" Victory and triumph! The volume control mystery has got to have an answer... we can view the volume control from out here by clicking on your picture of the Line Amp to enlarge it. I would say the "chrome tab" is one of the audio leads from the volume control that solders to the circuit card inside the amp. It looks like perhaps you can reach below the volume control and twirl it with a finger. Here is a Jim Henry mystery statement that confuses me: " Still not working with the amp powered off." Do you have a reason for thinking it will work with the amp turned off? The amp has to be powered on for the amp to pass audio.
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Post by jimhenry2000 on May 21, 2017 5:01:08 GMT
I now have the xmtr set up in a Tupperware container and plan to mount Sunday. Not my first choice but something that should work. I have also just purchased a Procaster. I'm not expecting it to be better than the 5000 but from what I have read I expect it to be comparable, and a complete solution without me having to create solutions. I hope I am right. I think I am going to go back to the 118" wire antenna for now, and just tape it to the mast which is fiberglass. Eventually I hope to find an enclosure with antenna mounted on it like the Procaster uses. Good news and bad news. First, I figured out the gain control. After putting it under my magnifying lamp I use when restoring antique radios, I realized that what I thought of as a philips head screw on the top was actually a slot like on a tuning slug. Using the right tool and now I can adjust it just fine. BTW RDL's web site support is useless. I filled out their form but every time I went to submit it, the site rejected the request for entering the wrong security code, and I tried AT LEAST 15 times. I was about to call them on the phone when I decided to give it one more try and put it under my magnifying lamp and found the answer. Now the bad news. I got everything ready for the outdoor install and loaded in my 4WD side by side to take up to the site. Unfortunately the flexing of the 102" cracked the enclosure where the antenna enters the enclosure. I anticipated this possibility and tried to install half-dollar sized washers, one inside and one outside, to spread out the stress on the enclosure. Unfortunately the length of the threaded bolt at the base of the whip was not enough so I tried to get by with just one washer on the outside but it was not enough. I wasn't crazy about the idea of mounting the whip on top of the enclosure from the gitgo due to the possibility of water entering the enclosure no matter how much silicone you put down. I've experienced this many times in my "day job" before I retired but at least in those cases we only had passive muxes/demuxes and fiber splice trays in those enclosures so it only became a problem in the winter when the water froze. I really would like to find another way to mount the whip and sure wish there were still Radio Shacks to go to. I went to a local truck stop and bought a couple different mounts but they haven't worked out.
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Post by Boomer on May 21, 2017 11:59:52 GMT
Tupperware can work for a little while, especially if it's real Tupperware, the soft pliable plastic, not the cheap 5 pack food storage containers.
Cool to hear you got a Procaster, and that someone is showing some love to that brand of transmitter. It's one of the pro, built and Approved transmitters that doesn't get talked about as much, probably because they don't so aggressively market it like other companies do.
I think it's the easiest system to tune of all of the pro units, no taps around a coil to peak up, just put it in its final resting place with all connections made, then turn the internal tuning capacitor until a peak is seen on the meter and that's it.
It's nice at home and also car cruises and hamfests where tuning up quickly is a virtue.
The key to the tuning is the output inductor is an air core inductor, I think it's 200 microhenries, and a tuning capacitor that's large enough to cover a the range of tuning correction needed.
Boomer
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Post by jimhenry2000 on May 22, 2017 4:13:52 GMT
The enclosure is real Tupperware., It's now installed with the STP CAT 5 attached to my strand and running back to my studio. I plan on connecting it up Monday. Tupperware can work for a little while, especially if it's real Tupperware, the soft pliable plastic, not the cheap 5 pack food storage containers. Cool to hear you got a Procaster, and that someone is showing some love to that brand of transmitter. It's one of the pro, built and Approved transmitters that doesn't get talked about as much, probably because they don't so aggressively market it like other companies do. I think it's the easiest system to tune of all of the pro units, no taps around a coil to peak up, just put it in its final resting place with all connections made, then turn the internal tuning capacitor until a peak is seen on the meter and that's it. It's nice at home and also car cruises and hamfests where tuning up quickly is a virtue. The key to the tuning is the output inductor is an air core inductor, I think it's 200 microhenries, and a tuning capacitor that's large enough to cover a the range of tuning correction needed. Boomer
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Post by jimhenry2000 on May 23, 2017 3:00:54 GMT
Nothing new as it rained all day. As far as the audio feed cable, I was very confident I measured it out and provided at least 10' of slack but after lashing it to my strand I discovered it was about 10' short so I will have to splice more cable on to it. I hope to get to Home Depot tomorrow and buy 2 new Shepherd's hooks and install them in the back lot to help support the strand then hopefully I can finish the install and again peak the RF of the transmitter. The enclosure is real Tupperware., It's now installed with the STP CAT 5 attached to my strand and running back to my studio. I plan on connecting it up Monday. Tupperware can work for a little while, especially if it's real Tupperware, the soft pliable plastic, not the cheap 5 pack food storage containers. Cool to hear you got a Procaster, and that someone is showing some love to that brand of transmitter. It's one of the pro, built and Approved transmitters that doesn't get talked about as much, probably because they don't so aggressively market it like other companies do. I think it's the easiest system to tune of all of the pro units, no taps around a coil to peak up, just put it in its final resting place with all connections made, then turn the internal tuning capacitor until a peak is seen on the meter and that's it. It's nice at home and also car cruises and hamfests where tuning up quickly is a virtue. The key to the tuning is the output inductor is an air core inductor, I think it's 200 microhenries, and a tuning capacitor that's large enough to cover a the range of tuning correction needed. Boomer
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Post by jimhenry2000 on May 24, 2017 2:33:31 GMT
Well it's done, more or less. I propped up the strand with one of the two Shepherd's hooks I bought today, wired the audio cable into the line amp, powered up the transmitter and re-peaked it. Since I eliminated that 150' run of coax between the transmitter and antenna I was hoping for a big increase in range, but it's about the same. Anyway I'm back on the air and the audio quality seems to be somewhat better. I have another ground rod so weather permitting I will install that at the xmtr site and hopefully that will help. Currently my ground system is a 6' diameter copper ground ring of AWS #6 that thirty 30' ground radials are bonded to, with the ground ring running across the lawn about 50' to the 8' ground rod. I'll leave that in place.
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